Head for Bodo in the Arctic Circle for aurora borealis, beers and bearskins in a cultural capital

Darragh McManus visits the northern Norwegian town and finds history, wondrous sights, great food and drink and even a fierce natural whirlpool

Outside Bodø, the aurora borealis shines brightly over two clear, plastic tent igloos used for viewing. Photo: Getty

Darragh McManus

We’re walking along the street in central Bodo, which is the second-largest town in northern Norway and the capital of Nordland, a colossal county which would cover about half the size of Ireland. Though situated about two-thirds of the way up the coast, it’s inside the Arctic Circle just about (80km or so). Naturally, then, all we can think about on our first night is the famous Northern Lights.

Aurora Borealis is easiest to see in winter, obviously. (Bodo’s shortest day is about 45 minutes of weak sunlight.) But with the city being some way south, and this being early October, plus a cloudy sky and the ambient street-lighting, there’s a chance we won’t get to see a thing at all.